The food is the best of any resort I have stayed in and the reason is restraint: simple, fresh, mostly local, expertly cooked. Order dinner at lunchtime from a short menu; nothing sits under a lamp. That format started here and half the high-end resorts in Indonesia now run a version of it, usually taught by someone who trained in this kitchen.
What the money buys is seventy-minute dives three times a day with nobody watching your gauge, a house reef open from first light until after dark, and guides who have worked these sites long enough to find a pygmy seahorse without appearing to look for it.




